Roger Dubuis' career started in typical watchmaking fashion - learning his craft at large manufactures, including Patek Philippe. These formative years are clearly reflected in the style of this Hommage Chronograph, inspired by classics such as Patek Philippe's reference 130. It is also similar to the Ref. 5070, albeit in a more elegant, smaller size.

The origin of Roger Dubuis

The first Roger Dubuis watches were acclaimed by collectors, because they channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking that Patek Philippe personified, while having more stylistic flair. The Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of old, according to Mr Dubuis. As SJX himself recounts,

"Roger Dubuis watches were, back then, a fusion of gorgeously finished ideas taken from the heyday of Swiss watchmaking."

It is understood that for each variant in the series, there were no more than 28 made. However, far fewer examples of the Monopoussoir have been seen. Each was chronometer-graded, with a certificate from the Besançon Observatory. One of the earlier pieces created by the legendary watchmaker, after establishing his own brand in 1995, examples such as this Monpoussoir are becoming increasingly collectible.

The design

The dial design is that of a two-register chronograph, with a cream dial and polished details including applied Breguet numerals. The polished surfaces and black printing contrasts well against the off-white texture. The feuilles hands are rose gold, with the central seconds hand and minute counter hand made out of blued steel. 

The case is very distinct with its polished, stepped concave bezel and polished lugs. The three-piece construction giving the watch a larger presence on the wrist than the 40 mm case would normally suggest.

The movement

Powered by the Cal. RD 65 (based on the Lemania 2310 - much like the Patek Philippe 5070), the watch bears the Seal of Geneva and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself. At the time of production, it was mainly Patek Philippe movements that carried the Seal of Geneva, hence why Mr Dubuis felt it was crucial to have the same hallmark.

The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator.

The set

This Roger Dubuis Monopoussoir H40 655 in rose gold is accompanied by its original box, papers, Besançon Chronometer Certificate, additional solid caseback and hangtags. 

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look