Roger Dubuis' career started in typical watchmaking fashion - learning his craft at large manufactures, including Patek Philippe. These formative years are clearly reflected in the style of this Hommage Chronograph, inspired by classics such as Patek Philippe's reference 130. It is also similar to the Ref. 5070, albeit in a more elegant, smaller size.

The origin of Roger Dubuis

The first Roger Dubuis watches were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking that Patek Philippe personified, while having more stylistic flair. The Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of old, according to Mr Dubuis. As SJX himself recounts,

"Roger Dubuis watches were, back then, a fusion of gorgeously finished ideas taken from the heyday of Swiss watchmaking."

It is understood that for each variant in the series, there were no more than 28 made. Each was chronometer-graded, with a certificate from the Besançon Observatory. One of the earlier pieces created by the legendary watchmaker, after establishing his own brand in 1995, examples such as this Monpoussoir are becoming increasingly collectible.

The design

The design is that of a two-register chronograph, with a matte black dial and applied Arabic numerals. The polished surfaces and outer dial printing form an excellent contrast against the black dial, with anti-reflective coating on the sapphire glass to further emphasise these details. The hour and minute feuilles hands are skeletonised, and they are made out of white gold.

The case is very distinct with its polished, stepped concave bezel and polished lugs. The three-piece construction gives the watch a larger presence on the wrist, than a 40 mm case would normally suggest.

The movement

Powered by the Cal. RD56 (based on the Lemania 2310 - much like the Patek Philippe 5070), the watch bears the Seal of Geneva and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself. At the time of production, it was mainly Patek Philippe movements that carried the Seal of Geneva, hence why Mr Dubuis felt it was crucial to have the same hallmark.

The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator.

The set

This Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph H40 560 in white gold is accompanied by its original box, certificate of origin, Poinçon de Genève certificate, manual, Besançon Chronometer Certificate and additional solid caseback.

It is worth noting that the case number is marked as “03/28” on the certificate of origin, while the case is marked as “09/28”. The movement number and all other details match, so this is likely due to an error from whoever was filling out the original paperwork (due to similarities in appearance between the numbers 3 and 9).

The watch comes on one of our custom Zürich taupe grained leather straps. It is also accompanied by its original black alligator strap and white gold tang buckle.  

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look