This early Roger Dubuis Hommage Bi-Retrograde Chronograph (Ref. H40 560 series) rose-gold, chronometer-graded watch is a limited edition of 28 and comes on a smoke-grey Nubuck strap and Roger Dubuis, rose-gold deployant clasp. It is one of the earlier pieces created by the legendary watchmaker, after establishing his own brand in 1995. It has a glossy, off-white lacquer dial and the movement was regulated by M. Roger Dubuis himself.

Roger Dubuis' career started in a typical watchmaker's fashion - learning his craft at large manufactures, including Patek Philippe. These formative years are clearly reflected in the style of this Hommage Chronograph watch, inspired by classics such as the Patek Philippe's Ref. 130 - albeit, with a contemporary twist.

It is understood that for each variant in the series, there were no more than 28 examples made. Each was chronometer-graded from the Besançon Observatory. One of the earlier pieces created by the legendary watchmaker, after establishing his own brand in 1995, these watches are becoming increasingly collectible.

The design is that of a two-register chronograph, with an off-white, lacquer dial. It’s painted with red, stylised Arabic numerals and black minute markers, which add a nice contrast against the light-toned dial. The minute and hour hands are skeletonised rose-gold, with blued-steel chronograph, 30-minute counter and skeletonised date hands. Two ‘arcs’ are visible on the dial at 6 and 12 o’clock, showing the day and date, respectively. The case is very distinct, with its polished, stepped concave bezel and brushed concave lugs. The three-piece case construction gives the watch a noticeable presence on the wrist, sized at 40mm.

The watch is powered by the Cal. RD 5630 (based on the Lemania 2310), bearing the Seal of Geneva. The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 25 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look